At first glance, it is difficult to believe that this was once the site of the theatre of ancient Samos. The stone seating has almost completely disappeared, and much of what we see today is modern. Beneath the wooden structure, however, traces of the past still remain – including mysterious vaults whose purpose archaeologists have been unable to explain with certainty. And despite the passage of two thousand years, the theatre itself still serves its original purpose.
The theatre was built on a hillside above present-day Pythagorio, within the boundaries of the ancient city of Samos. Its location was no accident – the natural slope of the terrain was used to create the seating area, which offered views towards the city and the sea.
The remains known from archaeological research date primarily from the Roman period, although theatrical traditions on Samos are much older. The building followed the typical layout of an ancient theatre: a semicircular seating area (koilon), an orchestra and an elaborate stage building.
We do not know exactly how many spectators the ancient theatre could accommodate. We do know, however, that it was not merely a place of entertainment. Like other theatres of the Greek and Roman world, it was an important part of city life – performances, ceremonies and public gatherings were held here.
The greatest mystery, however, comes later. Surprisingly little remains of the monumental stone theatre.
Surprisingly little remains of the ancient theatre’s stone seating. The rows of seats, stairways and monumental elements that we might expect from an ancient structure have not survived. Most likely, over the following centuries the theatre was gradually dismantled, while its stone and marble were reused as building materials.
The scale of the destruction is enormous. During archaeological excavations at the theatre, only a single stone seat was discovered. Another, kept at a hotel in Pythagorio, may also have come from the original seating area.
Looking at the hillside today, it is therefore difficult to imagine the theatre that once stood here. Its shape could only be partially reconstructed through excavations – traces hidden underground told archaeologists more than what remained visible on the surface.
Excavations carried out in 1996 made it possible to look beneath the theatre’s now almost empty surface. Archaeologists uncovered parts of the orchestra and stage building, stone slabs in front of the stage and traces of a marble floor. The foundations of the side sections of the stage also survived, helping researchers to reconstruct the layout of the entire structure more accurately.
Particularly intriguing was a rectangular depression in the central part of the stage, positioned below the level of the surrounding floor. It may have been a type of hypogeum – an underground space used during performances – although another theory suggests that it may have served as a place for a prompter. Its true purpose, however, has never been conclusively established.
After the excavations were completed, some of the uncovered remains were buried again to protect them from deterioration. This is why the theatre as it appears today does not reveal everything that still lies beneath the ground.
Beneath the modern wooden structure of the theatre, a stone vault has survived which, at first glance, looks like an ancient passage running beneath the stage. Its purpose, however, has never been conclusively explained.
Archaeologists consider two possibilities. The structure may have been part of the ancient theatre, perhaps connected with its backstage area or stage facilities. But there is also a very different hypothesis – the vault may have belonged to the system that supplied the ancient city of Samos with water.
For now, there is not enough evidence to solve the mystery. What appears to be an obvious remnant of the theatre may in fact belong to an entirely different chapter in the history of the ancient city.
Looking at the rows of wooden seats, it is easy to assume that we are seeing a reconstruction of the ancient auditorium. That is not the case. The wooden structure, stage and audience area are modern – they were built on the site of the ancient theatre but do not reproduce its original appearance exactly.
Modern performances began to be held here as early as the 1980s. At first, there were not even any seats – spectators simply sat directly on the hillside. Over time, the site was adapted for events and the present wooden seating area was constructed, accommodating around 750 people.
As a result, the site did not become merely an archaeological monument. After almost two thousand years, the hillside once again serves as a theatre – although its appearance today is completely different.
The ancient theatre in Pythagorio is not simply a place to visit while sightseeing. In summer, it once again fills with spectators, while concerts, theatrical performances and other cultural events take place on its stage.
It is a remarkable continuation of the site’s history. The stage has changed, wooden seats have replaced the stone ones, and audiences now come to see completely different performances. Yet the most important thing remains unchanged – the theatre still serves the same purpose for which it was created centuries ago.
It is therefore worth checking the programme of events before your trip. An evening performance or concert at the site of an ancient theatre can offer a completely different way to experience Pythagorio than visiting it during the day.
Take a look beneath the theatre’s wooden structure. This is where you can see the surviving stone vault whose purpose remains a mystery to this day. It is also worth paying attention to the shape of the terrain itself – the natural hillside makes it easier to imagine what the ancient seating area that once extended across this slope may have looked like.
If you visit Pythagorio in summer, check the programme of events as well. You may have the chance to experience the theatre not simply as an ancient monument, but exactly as a theatre is meant to be – with an audience, music and actors on stage.